Chasing Mavericks

Chasing Mavericks is a 2012 American biographical drama film directed by Curtis Hanson and Michael Apted about the life of American surfer Jay Moriarity.

One morning, Jay Jonny Weston, now 15, sees Frosty leaving early and hitches a ride on his van. He sees Frosty and three of his friends riding a gigantic swell known as Mavericks, which with El Nio coming in will be at its height in three months time.Reluctantly, Frosty agrees to teach Jay how to surf Mavericks, but insists that Jay learn about the foundation pillars of surfing. These involve him learning to paddle boardmiles from Santa Cruz to Monterey Bay, treading water forminutes and being able to hold his breath for four minutes. ........

Source: Wikipedia